Development of film forming spray containing Auricularia polytricha and Agaricus bisporus extracts for skin barrier function improvement in elderly and dry skib

Abstract

Mushrooms are edible fruit bodies of macro-fungi that are valuable food for humans containing high amounts of essential nutrients. Edible mushrooms have secondary metabolites such as phenolic compounds, polysaccharides, and fatty acids that are interesting for application in natural cosmetic and cosmeceutical ingredients. Therefore, this study aimed to determine two different mushrooms; cloud ear mushroom (Auricularia polytricha) and portobello mushroom (Agaricus bisporus) for their attractive bioactive properties: antioxidant, anti-aging, anti-inflammatory properties, skin barrier function, and skin moisturizing effect. Then, the extracts with good bioactivities were selected to develop film forming spray for enhancing the skin barrier function and moisturized the skin. Mushrooms powder was extracted with 95%v/v ethanol to obtain cloud ear mushroom ethanol extract (CE) and portobello mushroom ethanol extract (PE). The residue mushrooms powder was then reextracted with hot water to obtain cloud ear mushroom water extract (CW) and portobello mushroom water extract (PW). The results showed that CW exhibited the highest total polysaccharide content of 748.20 ± 0.36 mg glucose/g extract. While PE and CE presented high levels of total phenolic and flavonoid contents. From HPLC analysis, the chromatograms of mushroom extracts showed the major constituents of gallic acid and ergothioneine. Gallic acid and ergothioneine were found significantly higher in PE than other extracts. Moreover, PE possessed significantly outstanding DPPH, ABTS scavenging activities, and FRAP reducing power when compare to other extracts. CW showed a high ability to inhibit hyaluronidase enzyme, whereas PE and CE presented the outstanding to delay collagen and elastin breakdown by collagenase and elastase inhibition activities. Cytotoxicity of the extracts was tested by MTT assay, all the mushroom extracts expressed more than 80% cell viability at the highest concentration 300 μg/mL on HaCaT cells, which were non-cytotoxic. PE strongly inhibited pro-inflammation cytokine including IL-6 and TNF-α that demonstrated a skin protection effect and decreased inflammation on HaCaT cells. CW enhanced skin hydration by increasing level of filaggrin. On the other hand, PE exhibited the highest level of aquaporin-3 on HaCaT cells. Therefore, PE was selected as a natural active ingredient to prevent inflammation, antioxidant, and anti-aging while the CW was selected as natural polymer for developing film forming spray (FFS). The FFS was formulated using 0.74%w/w CW, 1.38%w/w sodium polystyrene sulfonate, and 0.87%w/w glycerin. Film forming spray containing 0.5%w/w PE (PE-FFS) was evaluated physical appearance, drying time, occlusive factor, spray pattern, in vitro skin permeation, and hydration skin test in human volunteers. The results showed that the PE-FFS has a transparent thin film with drying time as 2.21 min and occlusive factor as 17.67%. It has a good spray pattern in spherical spots. It has good skin permeation with the long-lasting effect and increasing skin hydration after 4 weeks of application. In conclusion, the PE-FFS is a natural film forming spray formulation that can help to increase moisturizer for dry skin in elderly.