Old clothes, new materiality: an assemblage of military vintage commodity networks and consumption in Thailand

Abstract

This dissertation aims to achieve three main objectives. Firstly, it seeks to investigate the factors and reasons shaping vintage clothing consumption practices in Thailand, drawing insights from historical context and oral history. Secondly, it aims to examine the processes of value transformation within vintage clothing and other elements in various phases and locations, investigating how the agency within materials interacts with other elements to provide fresh perspectives on material accumulation through these relationships. Lastly, the research inspects the rationales underpinning the act of consuming, collecting, and engaging with military vintage clothing in the Thai context, along with the resulting implications on supporting masculinity. Conducted through qualitative research, this study inquiries into the multifaceted world of vintage clothing consumption and production. It unravels the agency enmeshed within these garments as they transition from discarded items to cherished artifacts. Inspired by personal experiences as a dedicated vintage clothing enthusiast, the research investigates the profound attachments people form with clothing from the past, particularly U.S. military vintage attire. Through the lenses of assemblage theory, materiality, and the intertwined practices of diverse actors, the study uncovers the dynamic conceptualizations that metamorphose vintage clothing from ordinary remnants into storied repositories of emotions and historical narratives. This investigation challenges the conventional separation of culture and nature by proposing that the materiality of clothing and its agency catalyze divergent trajectories in production, consumption, and collecting. The agency embedded in vintage clothing, often manifested through narratives of ownership, blurs the boundaries between past and present, inviting consumers to participate in the experiences and events these garments have lived through. The notion of the "spirit of vintage" captures the essence of clothing that embodies a collection of narratives, weaving the wearer's identity with the historical contexts of the attire. This dissertation has introduced and examined four key aspects within the framework of the "Trash to Treasure" assemblage. These points collectively illuminate the intricate processes and transformations that vintage clothing undergoes, shedding light on the cultural, historical, and psychological dimensions that shape its significance. The following are the major points addressed in this research: 1) Emergence of Vintage Clothing Popularity in Thailand: The roots of the popularity of vintage clothing in Thailand trace back to the Cold War era. During this period, imported Western clothing symbolized modernity and masculinity, making it highly coveted by Thai consumers. However, as mass availability diminished its exclusivity, vintage clothing gained appeal due to its historical essence and inability to be reproduced. Military vintage clothing, in particular, garnered attention for its potent representation of the U.S. government and culture. It served as a conduit for Thai men to connect with notions of modernity, masculinity, and pride. 2) Dialectical transformation of Vintage Clothing: The transformation of vintage clothing occurs through a dynamic interplay between human agency and materiality. This dialectical process is integral to recognizing the latent potential within these garments. Vintage clothing possesses spirits imbued with diverse historical experiences. These accumulated narratives contribute to the "vintageness" recognized by consumers, who capture these experiences for application in both production and consumption spheres. Notably, this transformation involves the incorporation of proficiency markers of American manhood. 3) the role of Jatujak Market in Vintage Transformation: Jatujak market in Thailand serves as a critical space where various human and non-human elements converge to facilitate the transformation of both physical and non-physical attributes of secondhand clothing into vintage items. Elements such as knowledge, relationships, trust, local dealers, and international buyers intersect in this marketplace, giving rise to a multifaceted transformation process. 4) redecoration of U.S. Army Uniforms, a Unique Collecting Method: An intriguing dimension of the relationship between Thai consumers and U.S. Army uniforms lies in the distinctive method of collecting. This involves the redecoration of vintage uniforms using vintage insignias. This practice, in essence, serves to fashion masculinity. The uniforms and insignias function as active agents, allowing consumers to infuse themselves with the spirit of past masculinity. Through this process, individuals adorn themselves with historical narratives, engaging with the history of the Vietnam War and fulfilling their desires for manhood in diverse ways. This dissertation examines into the nuanced and multifaceted processes that propel vintage clothing from discarded remnants to cherished artifacts. It highlights the intricate interplay between cultural contexts, historical narratives, materiality, and human agency, contributing to a deeper understanding of the transformative journey that vintage clothing undertakes within Thai society.