Anti-aging activities study and development of Nanoemulsions delivery system containing Mucuna pruriens (L.) DC. seed extract for cosmetic application

Abstract

This study aims to investigate the chemical components, antioxidant properties, anti-aging effects, and moisturizing efficiency of extracts from Thai variety (Mucuna pruriens var. pruriens) and Indian variety (M. pruriens var. utilis). The extracts were obtained using 95% ethanol through the Soxhlet method. The total phenolic and flavonoid contents of the extracts were analyzed. The antioxidant properties were evaluated by DPPH assay, FRAP assay, and lipid peroxidation inhibition assay. The anti-aging activity was evaluated the inhibition of hyaluronidase, collagenase, and elastase. The moisturizing property was examined using an occlusion method. The results indicated that the M. pruriens var. utilis seeds extract showed better properties than M. pruriens var. pruriens seeds extract. The total phenolic content of the M. pruriens var. utilis seeds extract was 252.96 ± 3.27 mg gallic acid/g extract, and the total flavonoid content was 734.82 ± 28.48 mg quercetin/g extract. These values were higher than those of the M. pruriens var. pruriens seeds extract. Therefore, the M. pruriens var. utilis seeds extract was selected for further development as a nanoemulsion. The nanoemulsion was prepared with 0.05% w/w M. pruriens var. utilis seeds extract, 5% w/w oil phase (jojoba oil), and 10% w/w surfactant (5% w/w Tween 80 and 5% w/w Span 80) and water. The nanoemulsion was prepared using high shear homogenization and ultrasonication. The particle size, polydispersity index, and zeta potential of the nanoemulsion were found to be 149.9 nm, 0.26, and -32.69 mV, respectively. The entrapment efficiency was 63.46%. Furthermore, the in vitro skin retention study revealed that after 6 hours, 44.19% of the formulation permeated through the membrane. The stability study under room temperature and heating-cooling cycles showed no significant changes in particle size, polydispersity index, and zeta potential compared to initial. In conclusion, the nanoemulsion containing the M. pruriens var. utilis seeds extract demonstrated potential for further development in the cosmetic products.