Indigo-dyed textile: the circulation of cultural commodities and the transformation of rural society in Sakon Nakhon, Thailand

Abstract

This dissertation delves into the revival of traditional hand-woven cotton textiles dyed with indigo in Sakon Nakhon Province, located in the northeast of Thailand. The revival of the indigo economy is occurring through the “commoditization processes.” In the context of economic engagement with the global free market, various actors, such as the state, local stakeholders, and institutions, are adapting their roles to accommodate the commoditization processes associated with indigo-dyed textiles, the primary local commodity. This research problematizes this recent surge of indigo-dyed textile commoditization, how a local commoditization of a cultural commodity transits the local setting to a base of production of culture, and how it asserts the local cultures to the global cultural landscape. This research draws upon six years of extensive ethnographic fieldwork conducted between 2010 and 2015. This research employed a longitudinal multi-sited ethnographic approach. The main research site encompasses Sakhon Nakhon province, 15 production-based villages, with Ban Tham Tao serving as an iconic case. Moreover, the research also focused on traders and entrepreneurs involved in the indigo-dyed textile commodity chains within and beyond the province, including permanent and occasional marketplaces. Additionally, the life cycle of two commodities, namely denim indigo fabric, and golfer outfits, were meticulously traced. Finally, in 2020, the research was revisited to provide a contemporary perspective on situations. The research findings are organized into two analytical themes: rural transformation and the circulation of cultural commodities. These themes elucidate the intricate processes underlying the commoditization of a local cultural commodity in the context of the global era. The first theme explores the phenomenon of rural transformation, which happens during the production process and the creation of economic value. Indigo-dyed textiles, rooted in the labor of rural communities, experience significant shifts when external markets come into play, compelling communities to enhance their production capabilities. Consequently, indigo-dyed textile production assumes a crucial role in the local economy, supplanting agricultural activities. To meet the increased demand, production processes have transitioned from being executed by a single artisan to the specialization of labor. Each artisan now focuses on a specific task that aligns with their skill. Weaving, considered less skill-intensive, is entrusted to laborers from neighboring communities. Furthermore, the emergence of indigo entrepreneurs represents a significant factor influencing the structure of the rural economy. Individuals within and outside production-based communities, possessing greater capital, knowledge, connections, or opportunities, transform themselves into entrepreneurs. These entrepreneurs substantially augment their social and economic roles, including active participation in local development projects. The second theme revolves around the circulation of cultural commodities, entailing the exchange of commodities and the cultural articulation between producers, entrepreneurs, and consumers. Throughout this circulation process, people construct cultural and symbolic meanings inscribing for the commodities, acting as mediators. The local government of Sakon Nakhon recognized the significance of indigo-dyed textiles as a local commodity and emblem of identity. As a result, local actors produce and construct their articulated local identity by adopting global formats to approve the universal quality of locality. Notably, the mediation of cultural and economic circulations also occurs in the branding processes employed by indigo entrepreneurs. These entrepreneurs establish brand identities and narratives that present local identities. Local communities employ global forms as a strategic tool to standardize and gain acceptance of their local products in the realm of global consumption. This research argues that the global forces, networks of connection, and transcultural exchange act as pathways that enable local communities to respond actively to global dynamics rather than passively being merely impacted by them. These communities adapt their production methods, focusing on the creation of this particular commodity and engaging neighboring villages for agricultural labor. Individuals possessing diverse forms of capital undergo a transformation, becoming entrepreneurs and driving the local economy forward. Indigo-dyed textiles serve as a mediator, connecting people throughout their social lives through the exchange of commodities and cultural articulation that span local, national and global levels. Furthermore, these local individuals adopt global approaches, such as branding and beauty pageants, to validate the universal qualities of their products. In conclusion, the deliberate commodification of indigo-dyed textiles empowers local artisans to create a space for themselves within both the global cultural and economic spheres. Importantly, the process of commoditization introduces an element of heterogenization from the local culture into the global tapestry, enriching the world’s collective diversity.