Development of skincare cosmetic from yeast beta-glucans

Abstract

© 2016, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Chulalongkorn University. All rights reserved. Objectives: This study aimed to will create value to the industrial waste by systematic extraction and purification of beta-glucan from by-product of yeast (Saccharomyces cerevisiae) and develop skincare cosmetic from beta-glucan extract. Methods: Beta-glucan from by-product of yeast (Saccharomyces cerevisiae) obtained from beer industry was involved treatments with cell lysis fractioning, solvent extraction and freeze drying. Then the extract was identified beta-(1,3)-(1,6)-glucan by TLC and UV-visible spectroscopy. The amount of beta-glucan in the extract was measured by HPLC. Its antioxidant activity with nitric oxide and DPPH radical scavenging assay were investigated. The extract was formulated as an oil-in-water emulsion in 3 formulations with cold process and the formulations were selected on the best physical and chemical properties after accelerated stability tests. Then, the measurement of the skin humidity was performed in 15 female volunteers by using moisture sensor after application of the sample for 2 weeks. Results: The results showed that beta-glucan was the major active ingredient in the extract and the percent yield of extraction was 70.03%w/w. The concentration of beta-glucan for inhibiting nitric oxide radical and DPPH 50% were 92.95 and 88.74 μg/ml, respectively. The protective effect against the skin humidity reduction depended on the beta-glucan concentration. The volunteers were very satisfied in moderate to good level and average moisture contents of the skin before and after applying 5% beta-glucan cream were 42.8% and 49.0%, respectively (p<0.05). No irritation on 5% beta-glucan cream was found. The stability test of formulated cream by heating and cooling of 6 cycles was found that all tested products were still stable with more viscous and pale color. Conclusion: The results obtained in this study showed that beta-glucan extract from yeast waste contains beneficial cosmeceutical properties including antioxidant, moisture retention and skin regeneration. It had a promising potential for use as an effective and economical cosmetic ingredient that can be applied in skincare especially for sensitive skin.